The rain has been falling for hours. The ground is cold, branches are dripping, the lighter slips between your fingers. In these conditions, making fire is no longer about luck, but about method.
⏱ Estimated reading time: ~ 14 minutes
Summary
- Introduction
- Fundamental principles
- Choosing and preparing the location
- Finding dry wood in the rain
- Tinder in wet weather
- Ignition tools
- Wood types
- The tarp and the fire
- Two military techniques for extreme conditions
- The operational sequence
- Extinguishing and securing
- FAQ
Making fire in the rain: the bushcraft method to succeed even in bad weather
When everything is wet, the three elements of fire are attacked simultaneously: the fuel is soaked, the heat dissipates too quickly, and oxygen circulation is poor if the fire pit is poorly built and wet. Success therefore depends less on the ignition tool than on preparation.
A fire in the rain is successfully started before the first spark.
The objective is simple: to recreate, for a few minutes, dry, warm, and ventilated conditions. To do this, you need to choose the right location, insulate the fire pit from the ground, find dry wood inside branches, prepare reliable tinder, and then gradually feed the fire.
I. Fundamental principles
In rainy weather, it's not enough to find wood and try to light it. You need to understand what prevents the fire from catching.
A fire requires three simultaneous conditions:
- fuel at its ignition temperature (dry wood ignites around 250–300 °C)
- sufficient oxygen supply
- a sustained heat source
Rain attacks these three conditions at the same time.
- Wood absorbs water on its surface. Beyond 25–30% humidity, combustion becomes very difficult: the flame's energy is first consumed evaporating the water (at 100 °C, even before reaching pyrolysis).
- Rain dissipates heat through convection and evaporation. The first fragile flames struggle to maintain a sufficient temperature to propagate combustion. This is why a small, exposed fire quickly goes out: heat loss exceeds heat input.
- Humidity also reduces draft: a compact, wet fire limits air circulation, and thus the oxygen supply needed for the combustion reaction.
The strategy therefore consists of locally recreating dry conditions: insulating the fire pit from the ground (conduction), protecting it from direct rain, using dry tinder, and building a structure that allows good convection from the moment of ignition.
The number one rule is therefore: never try to light a fire before everything is prepared.
You need to have on hand:
- dry tinder;
- very small kindling;
- pencil-sized wood;
- thumb-sized wood;
- a few larger pieces to maintain the fire;
- a means of extinguishing.
Most failures come from an incorrect sequence: you light too early, with too little kindling, then the flame dies before there is enough heat to dry the next fuel.
II. Choosing and preparing the location
The location is often more important than the ignition tool. A bad location exposes the fire to rain, wind, runoff, or soggy ground.
What to look for
- a rock overhang
- Shelter under a tree
- an area protected from the prevailing wind
- a flat stone or a less damp surface
- a place where water doesn't run towards the fire pit
Wind can sometimes be more problematic than rain. It cools embers, scatters flames, throws sparks, and can smoke out the shelter. Observe the wind direction before setting up the fire.
Insulating the fire pit from the ground
On wet, snowy, or cold ground, do not place the fire directly on the ground. Humidity absorbs heat and prevents the first embers from developing. Create a platform with:
- flat stones;
- green branches;
- thick pieces of bark;
- split logs, dry side up.
Securing the area
Even in the rain, a fire can become dangerous. Remove twigs and debris near the fire pit. Avoid peaty soils or areas with many dry roots. Always keep water, mineral soil, sand, or a tool to control embers nearby.
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III. Finding dry wood in the rain
Even after several hours of rain, usable wood often exists. Deadwood lying on the ground is usually bad — it absorbs moisture from contact with the earth. Standing deadwood is much better, as it dries faster and its core often remains usable.
The best wood sources
- dead branches still attached to trees;
- small dead standing trunks;
- low dead branches of conifers;
- the underside of a fallen trunk;
- the core of a split log;
- pieces protected by thick bark.
Field test: break a branch. If it breaks cleanly with a sharp snap → usable. If it bends or tears softly → too wet or rotten.
Accessing the dry core
A piece of wood can be wet on the outside and dry on the inside. To access the heartwood (dry core):
- remove the wet bark;
- split the wood;
- remove spongy or blackened areas;
- keep the core clear, hard, and dry;
- carve this core into shavings or small sticks.
Batoning — striking the back of a knife with a stick to split wood — can be useful, but must be done cautiously with a solid, non-folding knife.
Making feathersticks
The featherstick is an essential technique in wet conditions. It involves carving very thin shavings into a stick without completely detaching them, creating a flower of dry wood with maximum ignition surface. Prepare several before lighting — one is rarely enough in the rain.
Protecting prepared wood
As soon as the kindling is prepared, protect it immediately: under the tarp, in a pocket, under bark, or against yourself. Leaving it in the rain for a few minutes negates part of the work.
IV. Tinder in wet weather
Tinder is the first material to receive a spark or flame. In the rain, it often makes all the difference. Bad tinder wastes matches, gas, or firesteel energy.
Flax tow and plant fibers
Flax tow is one of the most effective and oldest tinders. Its long, thin, airy fibers immediately catch a spark and maintain the ember long enough to blow it into flame. Hemp and jute fibers give similar results — a well-formed, never compacted ball.
Birch bark
One of the best natural tinders. It contains oils that help it burn even when superficially wet. Peel off thin strips, scrape with the back of a knife to create fine fibers. It works even better combined with very fine wood or petroleum jelly cotton.
Fatwood
Resinous wood saturated with resin, found in stumps, knots, or dead parts of pines and conifers. Recognized by its strong odor, orange or amber color, and sometimes sticky feel. Excellent for starting, but it can throw sparks — use with caution under a tarp.
Amadou fungi
Tinder fungus (Fomes fomentarius) and Daldinia concentrica can hold a slow ember. They must be very dry and properly prepared. Good tools for experienced practitioners, less reliable for a beginner in heavy rain.
Artificial tinder
- Cotton soaked in petroleum jelly — light, inexpensive, burns for several minutes;
- Waxed wood wool;
- Cedar shavings impregnated with wax.
Emergency tip: cotton fabric
As a last resort, a piece of cotton t-shirt or sock can serve as tinder. Fray it to get fine, airy fibers. The finer the fibers, the more easily they catch. This method works on dry or slightly damp cotton.
Storage: Store tinder in a waterproof metal box. Distribute into several separate containers — if one gets wet, the entire stock isn't lost.
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V. Ignition tools
In the rain, never depend on a single tool. Ideally, you should have at least three independent ignition methods.
The firesteel
The ferrocerium rod is very reliable in wet conditions. It works even when wet, provided you have suitable tinder. It produces sparks at over 3,000 °C. Military personnel and bushcraft enthusiasts often wear it as a necklace or integrated into a knife. It is the most reliable ignition tool.
Technique: place the striker near the tinder and pull the rod towards you — do not push the striker. This avoids scattering the tinder with an overly violent motion.
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The lighter
The quickest tool to produce a flame, but it is sensitive to water and dust. Protect it in a pocket or waterproof box. A storm lighter is more effective in strong winds, but it doesn't replace good wood preparation.
All-weather matches
Useful as backup — they burn better than ordinary matches and are more resistant to humidity. But limited in number: don't waste them to compensate for poor preparation. Store in a waterproof container with a dry striker.
The USB electric lighter
Resists wind well, can light certain fine fibers. But it depends on a battery and works poorly on coarse wood. It's a supplement, not a primary solution.
The 3 × 3 rule
| Category | Option A | Option B | Option C |
|---|---|---|---|
| Ignition | Firesteel | Storm lighter | All-weather matches |
| Tinder | Vaseline cotton | Birch bark | Fatwood |
| Fuel | Fine twigs | Pencil-sized wood | Thumb-sized wood |
This redundancy prevents a single failure from blocking the entire operation.
VI. Wood types
For starting the fire
Conifers (pine, fir, spruce, fatwood) catch quickly and produce heat rapidly. But they can crackle, throw sparks, and burn too fast. Useful for initial ignition, less suitable as main fuel under a tarp.
For maintaining the fire
Once the fire is started, use denser woods: oak, beech, ash, hornbeam, maple, elm. These woods burn longer, produce better embers, and throw fewer sparks.
Wood to avoid near a tarp
Chestnut, resinous wood heavily laden with sap, wet wood that explodes, rotten wood, treated wood, painted wood, unknown pallets. Treated or painted wood can release toxic fumes — never burn.
VII. The tarp and the fire
A tarp can help protect a nascent fire from rain, but it can also become dangerous. It can melt, burn, tear, drip, or accumulate smoke. Never consider a synthetic tarp safe when pitched over an open fire.
Nylon, polyester, polyethylene, and silnylon can be damaged by sparks or heat. Even a cotton canvas should be used with caution if it is not flame-retardant treated.
The best configuration: the lean-to
The lean-to is generally the most suitable configuration. The tarp is angled at 30–45°, open towards the fire. The camper stays under the shelter and the fire is placed in front of the opening, never directly under the tarp.
Advantages: good ventilation, smoke evacuation, protection from rain, heat reflected towards the shelter. By placing a reflector (stones, trunk) behind the fire on the opposite side, heat is concentrated towards the camper.
The A-frame
Provides very good protection from rain, but can cause smoke and heat issues. If a fire is used nearby, it must remain well outside the shelter, with good air circulation.
Hand test: place your hand at the height of the tarp. If the heat is uncomfortable for your hand, it is dangerous for the tarp. Add an additional 30 to 60 cm of margin.
The high canopy
The tarp is pitched at least 2.10 m high above the living area. It offers less protection against oblique rain, but limits the risk of contact with flames. Requires a small fire, excellent ventilation, and constant supervision.
Safety rules with a tarp
- never make a large fire;
- never place the fire directly under a low tarp;
- avoid wood that throws sparks;
- constantly monitor wind direction;
- keep a sufficient distance between the fire pit and the edge of the tarp;
- have immediate extinguishing means ready;
- never use a garden gazebo over a fire.
“The Indian makes a small fire and sits close. The white man makes a big fire and stands far away.”
VIII. Two military techniques for extreme conditions
When it's no longer a passing shower but a Scottish rain — horizontal, cold, continuous, with wind — the rules change. You no longer make a clean small fire under a carefully pitched tarp. You enter the commando mindset: protect the fire at all costs, with what you have.
Two techniques from military practice address these extreme conditions.
This is the most radical technique. It has been used by military personnel in training for decades — especially during commando training in Achnacarry, Scotland, where rain and wind are the norm, not the exception. Its principle: to put the fire underground to shield it from rain and wind.
How to build a Dakota fire pit:
- Choose stable ground — neither sandy (risk of collapse) nor peaty (risk of underground spread). Compact silty-clay soil is ideal.
- Dig the main fire pit — a cylindrical hole about 30 cm deep and 25 to 30 cm in diameter. This is where the fire burns. Set aside the excavated soil to backfill when leaving.
- Dig the ventilation duct — about 20 to 25 cm from the main fire pit, on the windward side, dig a second smaller hole (10 to 12 cm in diameter) angled downwards to meet the base of the fire pit via an underground tunnel. This is the fire's lung — it brings oxygen from below, regardless of surface wind.
- Insulate the bottom of the fire pit — place small flat stones or large dry bark at the bottom to prevent soil moisture from killing the first embers.
- Light from the top — build the fire normally in the pit, tinder in the center, kindling around it, and light from above. Combustion descends, ashes fall to the bottom without obstructing the draft.
- Cover the fire pit if necessary — in heavy rain, place a tripod of three branches above the hole and lean some very green conifer branches on it like an umbrella. They deflect rain and allow heat to pass upwards.
Military advantages: almost invisible fire from a distance, little smoke with dry wood, resistant to gusts, economical in wood. Tested under 12 mm of rain and 50 km/h wind, the Dakota fire can last several hours without intervention.
Warning: never make a Dakota fire on peaty soil — dry roots can maintain underground incandescence for 4 days after extinction, without anything being visible on the surface. Always douse thoroughly and stir the soil before leaving.
Technique 2 — The green branch protection tipi
When you cannot or do not want to dig — rocky soil, frozen ground, quick bivouac — commandos and Nordic bushcraft practitioners use a second approach: building a protective structure around the fire with materials from the terrain.
This is not a shelter for sleeping. It is a fire shield — a conical construction that deflects rain, breaks the wind, and creates a concentrated heat chamber around the fire.
How to build the protection tipi:
- Prepare the fire pit normally — on a dry platform, isolated from the ground, tinder ready, wood prepared by size.
- Cut 6 to 8 dense green wood branches, approximately 1.20 m to 1.50 m long. Green branches do not ignite easily and resist radiant heat.
- Plant the branches in a circle around the future fire pit, about 40 to 50 cm from the center, tilting them inwards like a tipi. Drive them firmly into the ground so they hold in the wind.
- Cross the tips at the top and tie them with paracord, string, or liana.
- Fill the sides from the outside with shorter branches slipped horizontally between the uprights, like tiles — from bottom to top — so that rain slides from branch to branch without penetrating. Fir branches with dense needles are particularly effective. The top must remain open by at least 20 cm to allow smoke to escape and air to circulate. A closed top suffocates the fire.
- Leave an access opening on the leeward side, wide enough to slide wood in or monitor the fire. This opening also acts as an air intake.
- Light the fire inside — once the structure is in place, the inner space is already more protected. The fire starts much more easily.
This structure reduces the direct impact of rain on the fire pit by about 80%, cuts lateral wind, concentrates radiant heat inwards, and creates a natural draft chamber through the chimney at the top. In less than 20 minutes with forest materials, you have a fully operational fire pit in stormy weather.
These two techniques have one thing in common: they do not seek to avoid rain, but to free themselves from it. This is the commando philosophy — working with constraints, not against them.
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IX. The operational sequence
| # | Step | Priority |
|---|---|---|
| 1 | Set up the working shelter — the tarp protects the preparation area first | Critical |
| 2 | Prepare wood before lighting — collect more than planned, part of the fire's energy will be used to dry it | Critical |
| 3 | Split and carve — remove bark, expose heartwood, prepare feathersticks | Critical |
| 4 | Build an airy base — platform isolated from the ground, tinder centered, shavings around it without compacting | Important |
| 5 | Light — use the most reliable method, do not add too much wood at once | Critical |
| 6 | Feed gradually — tinder → shavings → twigs → pencil-sized → thumb-sized → logs | Critical |
| 7 | Keep a dry reserve — small wood close to the fire to dry, ready to restart | Important |
X. Extinguishing and securing
A successful fire is not just a fire that is lit. It is a fire that can be completely extinguished.
- let it burn down to embers;
- disperse the embers;
- douse generously with water or cover with mineral soil;
- stir, repeat;
- check that no heat remains.
The fire pit must be cold before leaving. Not warm. Cold.
Never make a fire if local regulations prohibit it, during a dry period, in strong winds, on peaty soil, near dry roots, or without means of extinguishing.
In summary
Making fire in the rain requires method, not haste. Success depends on a few simple principles: choosing a good location, insulating the fire pit, finding the dry heart of the wood, preparing a lot of small fuel, protecting the tinder, and lighting only when everything is ready.
Rain complicates fire, but it doesn't make it impossible. What makes the operation difficult is improvisation.
Shelter → Prepare → Protect → Light → Feed → Monitor → Extinguish
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FAQ — Making fire in the rain
Can you really light a fire in heavy rain?
Yes, with the right method. The secret is in preparation: dry tinder stored under cover, split wood to access the dry core, a platform isolated from the ground, and a working shelter set up before lighting.
What is the best ignition tool in wet weather?
Ferrocerium is the most reliable — it works even when wet and produces sparks at over 3,000°C. It should always be accompanied by suitable tinder like petroleum jelly cotton or birch bark.
How do you find dry wood when it's raining?
Look for dead branches still attached to trees, standing dead trunks, and the heart of branches by splitting the wood. The outside may be soaked, but the inside often remains dry and usable.
What is a Dakota fire pit?
A military technique that involves digging two holes connected by an underground tunnel. The fire burns in the first hole, protected from rain and wind, and the second hole provides oxygen draft from below.
Can you use a tarp over a fire?
With caution. The tarp should be in a lean-to configuration, inclined at 30-45°, never directly above the fire. Avoid synthetic materials and test the heat with your hand before setting up the tarp.
Read also:
→ Cauldron cooking: 7 misconceptions that unnecessarily hold back beginners
→ Our guide to choosing your cauldron
→ How to light a fire with ferrocerium (practical guide)
→ Sharpening a knife: complete guide for a truly sharp blade
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